The Longines PrimaLuna (L8.113.4.87.6): A Genuine Automatic in Mother-of-Pearl and Diamonds
The Longines PrimaLuna (L8.113.4.87.6): A Genuine Automatic in Mother-of-Pearl and Diamonds
Mother-of-pearl catching the light, diamonds for hour markers, and a mechanical heart beating quietly underneath. The PrimaLuna is Longines' love letter to the moon — and one of the most elegant automatic watches you can buy at its price.
Most watches marketed to women are quartz, and many are fashion pieces first and watches second. The Longines PrimaLuna is neither: it is a genuine mechanical watch, automatic, from one of the oldest and most respected names in Swiss watchmaking — dressed in mother-of-pearl and diamonds, but serious underneath.
The reference here is the Longines PrimaLuna L8.113.4.87.6: a 30 mm stainless-steel automatic with a white mother-of-pearl dial, diamond hour markers, and a date. This is a hands-on look at what the PrimaLuna is, what makes it special, and where it sits on value.
Historical Context: Longines and the Moon
Longines was founded in Saint-Imier in 1832 and is one of watchmaking's genuine heavyweights — a pioneer of precision timekeeping, of the chronograph, and of aviation navigation, with a winged-hourglass logo that is among the oldest registered trademarks in the world. Today, as part of the Swatch Group, Longines occupies a sweet spot: real heritage and Swiss quality at accessible prices.
The PrimaLuna — Italian for "first moon" — is Longines' principal women's line, and its whole design language is lunar. The round case seems to float within a softly curved surround, the lugs curve like a crescent, and the mother-of-pearl dial shifts colour like moonlight on water. It is romantic without being fussy, and crucially it is offered with a proper automatic movement — a rarity at this level of the women's market.
Key Historical Milestone. Longines, founded 1832, is one of the oldest names in watchmaking and holds one of the oldest registered trademarks (the winged hourglass). The PrimaLuna is its flagship women's collection, built around a moon-inspired design — and offered, as here, in a genuine automatic version rather than quartz. (Source: Longines collection information.)
That combination — a great Swiss name, a mechanical movement, and genuinely feminine design — is exactly what makes the PrimaLuna stand out from the sea of quartz fashion watches it competes against.
Reference Number & Dating
The reference L8.113.4.87.6 decodes to a specific PrimaLuna configuration: the L8.113 case in the 30 mm size, in steel, with a white mother-of-pearl diamond-index dial and a steel bracelet. This is a current-catalogue Longines, so it is straightforward to verify against the brand's own reference — no guesswork required.
What the Case Back Tells You
A genuine Longines carries its reference and serial on the case back, and the movement inside is a Longines-signed automatic caliber. Because this is a current reference, authenticity is easy to confirm: reference, serial, Longines-signed automatic movement, and the correct mother-of-pearl-and-diamond dial should all line up.
| Specification | Detail |
|---|---|
| Model / Reference | Longines PrimaLuna, L8.113.4.87.6 |
| Case size | Ø 30 mm |
| Case material | Stainless steel |
| Dial | White mother-of-pearl with diamond hour markers |
| Movement | Self-winding (automatic), 28,800 vph, ~45 h power reserve |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Crystal | Sapphire, anti-reflective |
| Water resistance | 3 bar (~30 m) |
| Bracelet | Stainless steel, folding safety clasp |
Authentication note: as a current reference, verify against Longines' own data — reference/serial on the case back, a Longines-signed automatic movement, and the mother-of-pearl diamond dial. Genuine diamonds and real mother-of-pearl (with its natural, uneven shimmer) are part of what you are paying for.
The Dial
The dial is the PrimaLuna's whole reason for being. A white mother-of-pearl face shifts between soft whites, silvers and faint pastels as the light moves — no two mother-of-pearl dials are identical, which is part of the charm — set with diamond hour markers that catch the light against the pearl. Blued hands and a discreet date complete a design that is unmistakably feminine but never gaudy.
What Originality & Quality Look Like
On a genuine PrimaLuna the mother-of-pearl has real depth and natural irregularity (printed "faux-MOP" looks flat and uniform by comparison), the diamond markers are set cleanly, and the Longines signature is crisp. Because this is a current model, the main things to check on a pre-owned example are condition rather than authenticity of design: an unmarked dial, intact markers, and a clean crystal.
Dial quality — the key point. The appeal here is genuine materials — real mother-of-pearl and real diamonds — executed by a serious maker. On an authentic example the pearl shimmers with natural variation and the diamonds sparkle crisply; anything flat, uniform, or dull deserves scrutiny. This is where the watch earns its elegance.
Inside the Watch: A Genuine Automatic
This is the PrimaLuna's quiet trump card: it is automatic. Where almost all of its fashion-watch competition runs on a battery, this one is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement — a Longines automatic caliber beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with around 45 hours of power reserve. Wear it and it winds itself; the seconds hand sweeps rather than ticks.
That matters for two reasons. First, feel: a mechanical movement is the thing that separates a real watch from a fashion accessory, and you sense it in the sweep and the winding. Second, longevity: a good automatic can be serviced and run for generations, where a quartz fashion watch is largely disposable. For a mechanical watch with real materials at this price, the PrimaLuna is genuinely hard to beat.
| Movement Specification | Detail |
|---|---|
| Type | Self-winding (automatic), Longines-signed |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph (4 Hz) |
| Power reserve | ~45 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
Movement figures reflect the automatic PrimaLuna specification. As with any mechanical watch, periodic servicing keeps it running accurately for the long term.
The Case & Bracelet
The 30 mm steel case is where the moon theme lives: the round case sits within a gently curved profile, the lugs sweep like a crescent, and the whole thing is highly polished for a jewel-like presence on the wrist. At 30 mm it wears as a true elegant women's watch — present but never oversized — and the sapphire crystal keeps it looking pristine. The matching steel bracelet, with its folding safety clasp, completes the integrated, dressy look.
What to Look For on the Case
On a polished steel watch, the main checks are scratches and swirls on the highly-reflective surfaces (these can often be improved by a light professional polish), a clean unchipped sapphire, a smoothly-functioning clasp, and — on the bracelet — minimal stretch at the links. Confirm the correct number of links or that spares are available for sizing.
Condition & Authenticity Checklist
| Component | What to Verify | Importance |
|---|---|---|
| Dial | Genuine mother-of-pearl (natural shimmer), diamond markers intact, unmarked | Critical |
| Movement | Longines-signed automatic; runs and sets correctly | High |
| Reference/serial | Matches L8.113.4.87.6; verifiable against Longines | High |
| Crystal | Sapphire, clean and unchipped | Medium |
| Bracelet & clasp | Smooth clasp, minimal stretch, sizing links available | Medium |
| Box & papers | Original set adds reassurance and value | Medium |
Market Value
The PrimaLuna is a current Longines, so there is a clear relationship between its retail price and the pre-owned market — and the pre-owned market is where the value is. A steel PrimaLuna automatic with a mother-of-pearl diamond dial retails well into four figures new; pre-owned examples in good condition sell for a fraction of that, which is what makes a used one such good value for a genuine mechanical Longines with real diamonds.
| Condition | Indicative Range (CHF) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Pre-owned, good, running | ~400–700 | The value sweet spot for a used automatic PrimaLuna |
| Excellent / full set (box & papers) | ~700–1,000 | Completeness and condition command a premium |
| Retail when new | Well into four figures | Pre-owned sits far below retail |
Collector insight: the PrimaLuna won't appreciate like a steel sports watch, but that is not the point — the point is that a used one gets you a genuine automatic Longines, with real mother-of-pearl and real diamonds, for a fraction of retail and far below what a comparable "designer" quartz would cost new. As an elegant gift or an everyday mechanical dress watch, it is exceptional value; prioritise a clean dial and a healthy movement.
Analysis: This Specific Example
This particular PrimaLuna is the 30 mm steel automatic with a white mother-of-pearl diamond dial on a steel bracelet — the configuration that best shows the collection off.
Dial & Case Assessment
The mother-of-pearl dial with diamond markers is the star, and the checks are simple: genuine, unmarked pearl with natural shimmer and intact diamond indices. The polished steel case and bracelet should present cleanly; light surface scratches are normal on polished steel and usually improvable.
Movement Assessment
As a genuine automatic, it offers the mechanical sweep and self-winding convenience that set it apart from quartz rivals. Confirm it runs and sets correctly; a service history is a plus on any pre-owned mechanical watch.
Overall Assessment
A good-condition PrimaLuna automatic is one of the most elegant value propositions in women's watches: a real Longines, a real mechanical movement, and real mother-of-pearl and diamonds, at pre-owned prices well below retail. It is a watch to wear and enjoy — and, unlike most of its competition, one built to last.
Why the PrimaLuna Matters
The PrimaLuna matters because it refuses a false choice. Too often, elegant women's watches are quartz fashion pieces, and "serious" mechanical watches are styled for men. The PrimaLuna is unashamedly feminine and genuinely mechanical — moon-inspired design, mother-of-pearl, diamonds, and a self-winding Longines movement, all in one.
For anyone who wants a real watch that also happens to be beautiful — or a gift that will still be running and still be loved in twenty years — a PrimaLuna is one of the smartest choices at its price. It is proof that elegance and horology were never meant to be separate.
Brothers in Watches · Deep Research Watch Report · Longines PrimaLuna, ref. L8.113.4.87.6
Sources & further reading: Longines collection and reference information for the PrimaLuna L8.113.4.87.6 (30 mm steel, white mother-of-pearl diamond dial, automatic, ~45 h power reserve, sapphire, 3 bar); general pre-owned market listings (asking prices labelled as such). As a current reference, specifications are verifiable directly against Longines; confirm genuine mother-of-pearl and diamonds, and a healthy automatic movement, on any pre-owned example.
